350 flywheel removal
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350 flywheel removal
Hello ,Im trying to get a fly wheel off a 350 sebring motor .I seen somewhere that it is posible to drill and tap it so that it is posible to just use a harmonic balancer puller or should it be done with a 2 jaw puller. if posible to drill and tap , is there a good place and a bad place to drill .
Also any recomendations for a machine shop that is competent with ducati singles.
Thanx
Robb
Also any recomendations for a machine shop that is competent with ducati singles.
Thanx
Robb
hi
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robb916998 - Posts: 700
- Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 12:30 pm
- Location: woodstock,canada
Why not just get the puller? They are not that expensive. There is a chap in the UK who has them on eBay fairly often. Might be someone in Ontario that could lend you theirs. There are two different types (thread sizes) depending on whether you have a narrow case or wide case engine.
If you do decide to drill and tap, drill between the inner rivetted flange and the lettering. The outer part has the magnets. The material is not very thick where you will be drilling, so drill three holes and use a three bolt puller (and pray).
Tension the puller and use a short sharp smack with hammer to shock free the flywheel.
If you do decide to drill and tap, drill between the inner rivetted flange and the lettering. The outer part has the magnets. The material is not very thick where you will be drilling, so drill three holes and use a three bolt puller (and pray).
Tension the puller and use a short sharp smack with hammer to shock free the flywheel.
- John
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 10:02 am
I use the 2 jaw option on my 3 jaw puller. The factory tool threads on to the steel center portion of the flywheel, but there are at least 3 different sizes, and almost nobody has 'em.
The 2 jaw option may require some modifying to the jaws, as space around the flywheel is tight. Make up a protective cap to fit over the end of the crank shaft, do the puller up really tight, and give the screw a few sharp whacks with a 16 oz. (or larger) hammer. It should break free, but sometimes they're on really tight. If this is the case, apply heat to the steel center with a oxy/acetylene torch (biggest tip-#30, or cutting). You have to get the heat in the center quickly, and a butane or plumbers torch is too small.
The 2 jaw option may require some modifying to the jaws, as space around the flywheel is tight. Make up a protective cap to fit over the end of the crank shaft, do the puller up really tight, and give the screw a few sharp whacks with a 16 oz. (or larger) hammer. It should break free, but sometimes they're on really tight. If this is the case, apply heat to the steel center with a oxy/acetylene torch (biggest tip-#30, or cutting). You have to get the heat in the center quickly, and a butane or plumbers torch is too small.
Bike borrower extraordinaire!
- Rocket Rick
- Posts: 594
- Joined: Fri Dec 17, 2004 11:50 am
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